Ines Papert

Mount Waddington 4018 m

First Ascent

First Ascent South West Buttress of Mt. Waddington’s NW Summit 4018m by Paul McSorley (Canada), Mayan Smith-Gobat (New Zealand) and Ines Papert on August 18th and 19th 2015

Archiv Ines Papert
Photo: Archiv Ines Papert

Mount Waddington is the highest peak in British Columbia.

This route was nearly completed in September of 2011 by Tony Richardson and Jason Kruk who approached by powerboat, raft and foot from Twist Lake over the course of a week. They came within two pitches of the summit ridge before bailing in the face of dangerously deteriorating rime ice.

An international trio comprised of Ines Papert, Paul McSorley from Canada, Mayan Smith Gobat from New Zealand and has made the first ascent of the 800m high SW Buttress of Mt. Waddington's NW Summit in British Columbia, Canada.

Photo: Archiv Ines Papert

The trio set off on 18 August and negotiated difficulties up to 5.11+ WI3 M5 ED1 past 20 pitches to reach the 4000m high NW summit, which stands 18m lower than the main summit.

"We summited on the 18th at around 7 pm, had a bivi on the descent via the Angel Glacier and arrived our BC in the morning of the 19th. That same evening we got the ride back by helicopter to Bluff Lake." explained Papert, who added "This route had nearly been completed in September of 2011 by our friends Tony Richardson and Jason Kruk who approached by powerboat, raft and foot from Twist Lake over the course of a week. They came within two pitches of the summit ridge before bailing in the face of dangerously deteriorating rime ice."

It is worth noting that while McSorley and Papert have a strong track record in alpine climbing, Mayan is known above all for her hard sports climbing and multi-pitch rock climbs, in Yosemity but also in the Dolomites. On FB the Kiwi climber commented that this experience had been "an amazing reintroduction to the Alpine environment…"

Facts

Hight: 800m, 20+ Pitches

Difficulty: 5.11+ WI 3 M5 ED1

First Ascent: August 18th-19th 2015

Descent: Via Angel Glacier/Dais Couloir/Dais Glacier

Topo
Photo: Archiv Ines Papert

Stories of Rock and Ice