Ines Papert

Scaramouche 8a+

Testpiece of the Huberbrothers redpointed

After several failed attempts Ines Papert finally sends the route on 4th September 2016, one of the most technical face climbs in her home mountains in Berchtesgaden.

Frank Kretschmann
Photo: Frank Kretschmann

Papert knows what to expect at the beginning of September as she ties in to begin climbing. She had attempted "Scaramouche" in the months before. Bad weather and a wet crux pitch made a redpoint impossible. Papert and her climbing partner Matthias Reiter find dry rock and a cool breeze on the morning of September 4th. Papert redpoints the first and hardest pitch first try. She completes all other pitches on her first try with the exception of the third pitch, for which she needs two attempts.

Photo: Frank Kretschmann

Papert once again displays her mental strength and incredible power on rock. Papert says: "I have spent about 10 to 14 days in the route over the past years. I have cursed, doubted, and laughed. Seldom have I climbed a route that was as technically demanding. My greatest respect goes to Thomas and Alexander for their first ascent of this wall, at that time, in that style, in one of the most beautiful walls of our planet, in Berchtesgaden."

Facts

  • Route: Scaramouche
  • Mountain: Hoher Göll Westwand, Berchtesgaden, Germany 8 pitches: 10-, 9, 9-, 7, 9+, 9-, 8, 9-
  • Approach: 300m along the old west face, then turn right to get to the base of the route
West face of Hoher Göll
Photo: Frank Kretschmann

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