Ines Papert

Bodytext

The pandemic lockdown in 2020 opened my eyes to the undiscovered rock climbing potential that lies dormant in my home region, the Berchtesgaden Alps. My disappointment at having to cancel an expedition to Alaska was quickly replaced by euphoria at the prospect of climbing a new route on one of the most difficult walls in the Alps.

The first ascent

Together with Luka Lindič from Slovenia, it quickly became clear what style we would use to tackle the steep, almost 400-meter-high wall. Luka had discovered this almost continuous crack line during his attempts on the legendary Huberbuam route “The End of Silence.”

The fact that this part of the wall often remained wet would only become a challenge later on. During the first ascent, we challenged our morale pitch by pitch, because our route should be in no way inferior to the neighboring lines on the steep pillar and be approached in a similar style. Challenging, but reasonable to secure for climbers with a lot of experience.

After four days on the wall, the job was done, and we were very satisfied with such a gigantic and completely unique route on my doorstep. We managed with a total of 17 intermediate bolts on 350 meters of wall height, but numerous cracks allowed for mobile belays.

Potential homeland

I quickly came to terms with the restrictions on my freedom to travel and was happy to be able to call the most beautiful place in the world my home.

Luka managed to free climb the route soon after the first ascent and promised to accompany me on my attempts.

But the summer remained unsettled and the route did not dry out, which became a problem for me, especially on the most difficult pitch, the shady overhanging crack intersection. Frustration set in.

Attempts

In the summer of 2021, I took on the challenge again and spent a few days up at the Reiteralm, but the wall repeatedly failed to dry out. Time and again, I failed on the fifth pitch and couldn't find a solution. Close to giving up, winter arrived and the dream remained. I had hoped I would come to terms with it, but in vain. It felt unfinished, and I was unable to find complete satisfaction with this route for the time being. I put the project on hold, with no concrete plans to return.

In 2022, we experienced the summer of the century, but I was initially far from being in peak physical condition. I spent two intense weeks putting all other commitments aside and focusing exclusively on our route, mostly alone but also accompanied by Luka or my son Emanuel.

The free ascent

On August 14, I still didn't know exactly how I would climb the most difficult pitch. But it seemed to be the last day before the forecast rain. I knew from experience that this would be my last chance, because in late summer the rocks would hardly dry out. But would I be able to meet the moral demands of this route?

We stood at the base early in the morning, planning little more than an attempt to climb the entire route free. This calmed my nerves and I felt free in my mind to give it my all.

A little later, I started the 5th pitch, improvising and struggling under Luka's encouragement, my forearms feeling like they were about to tear. Suddenly, I had passed the crux and reached the belay station. For the first time, all the holds and footholds were dry. I cheered, but at the same moment, I realized that I still had a long way to go.

For the time being, everything went according to plan, until I reached that unstructured section of the wall, which I considered to be the most difficult part of the entire route. It was an extremely long move for me. I failed and fell. The sun came around the corner and my fingers began to sweat, my skin became thin. For a moment, I lost faith in myself.

Back at the belay station, I had to take a break until a cloud (7) moved in front of the sun. My last doubts were gone, and I made it, just barely. Now it was just a matter of perseverance to finish it. I would be able to climb the 7c roof further up even with little energy reserves left.

And so, on the afternoon of August 14, a dream came true. I stood on the summit of the Feuerhörndl and had free climbed “Wolke 7”. With infinite gratitude for the endless mountain adventures in my home town of Bad Reichenhall, I now look up contentedly at the steep cliffs of the Reiteralm.